6 ISSUES FOR JUST £6 Subscribe to Yorkshire Life today CLICK HERE

Wetherby's Lionel Strub is the upper crust

18:47 23 January 2010

Lionel Strub adding the port sauce

Lionel Strub adding the port sauce

Zut alors! England's iconic pie and peas has been given a posh French makeover in Wetherby. Chris Titley investigates

In his Wetherby kitchen chef Lionel Strub is putting the finishing touches to a signature dish. With a flourish and a flick of the wrist he adds a swirl of rich port sauce to the edge of the white plate. voil - another culinary masterpiece is complete. But wait a minute. Isn't that . . . a pork pie? And aren't those mushy peas?

Well, yes and no. Lionel's creation is certainly inspired by a pork pie. However, if you lift the pastry lid and peep inside you'll find no pork, but duck comfit, truffle and foie gras. As for those veg, well these are no ordinary mushy peas, as the Marks & Spencer ad might go, but lightly buttered mushy peas with the merest hint of mint sauce. This, ladies and gentlemen, is Posh Pie and Peas.

The 5.95 dish has gone down a storm at Fennel, Lionel's restaurant in Victoria Court, Wetherby. He dropped it from the summer menu but it's back this autumn by popular demand, to the evident relief of some diners who have been ringing regularly to check on its ETA. Delicious though Posh Pie and Peas undoubtedly are, the sight of a Frenchman messing with the pork pie, the crusty crown of hearty English fare, verges on the heretic.

But if anyone can get away with it, Lionel Strub can. He spent 22 years in his French homeland and has now completed 22 years in England.


His menu is filled with examples of fine Yorkshire ingredients and dishes given a Gallic makeover.

French black pudding with pea and ham broth and a wholegrain mustard dumpling, for example, or Sherburn-in-Elmet raised venison with horseradish potato rosti and game jus. The Posh Pie just went that one stage further.

Lionel got the idea while helping out his supplier, the Yorkshire Meat Company, in their pre-Christmas rush. Preparing 75 turkeys for sale was mind-numbing work, but then his brain began ticking over as he watched the butchers crafting the perfect pork pie with hot water paste and a clever manual crust-fitting machine.

For payment, Lionel asked to come back and be given a crash course in perfect pie production. Then the stroke of genius hit him - combine the robust English exterior with the delicate flavours of France within. Le Posh Pie est arriv!

0 comments

More from Food & Drink

Sunday, March 22, 2015
Extensive research

This month the Editor has asked me to investigate Yorkshire ales — which is bit like ordering me to surf the web for artfully tasteful photographs of Monica Bellucci. You know, it’s something I was going to be doing anyway, so it’s no great hardship.

Read more
Thursday, March 19, 2015
Kitchen gardens

Good weather is here at last and a good time to visit a stately home with a walled kitchen garden writes Tony Greenway.

Read more
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
The Butchers Arms, Hepworth

Enjoy 2 Bar Meals for £15

Read more
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
The Wetherby Whaler

Tony Greenway seeks out 'free of' eateries that make life simpler for coeliac suffers

Read more
Monday, March 16, 2015
Harrogate Spring Water  the official refresher at Ascot (when they run out of champagne presumably)

A world-beating brand that sprang up in Harrogate and is still going strong

Read more
Monday, March 9, 2015
Rhubarb and Custard Mousse

This is wrong, tempting you with a sweet but head pastry chef Stefan Rose believes all good things in moderation

Read more
Monday, March 2, 2015
2014 Yorkshire Life Chef of the Year The winner, Tim Bilton from The Spiced Pear, receiving his award

Your chance to nominate and support Yorkshire’s finest food and drink businesses

Read more
Monday, March 2, 2015
Hendersons has been spicing up our lives since 1885

A real taste of Yorkshire celebrates its 130th birthday with a new cookbook

Read more

Food and Drink Directory

NEWSLETTER SIGNUP


Yorkshire's trusted business finder