Salmon master class

I have always had a soft spot for salmon with its silvery blue shimmer, sleek streamlined shape and distinctive orangey-pink flesh. However, salmon farming is an emotive subject, so it’s not surprising that there is a fair bit of confusion over exactly what we should all be buying. It was on one of our regular short-break visits to relatives, near Gleneagles in Scotland, that I discovered Loch Duart Salmon on several menus. It really is delicious – and for me there is no going back.With provenance high on everyone’s agenda these days, it is especially important to choose salmon from a very reputable supplier, and this is where Loch Duart Salmon appears to tick all the right boxes. Loch Duart was the first producer to win the RSPCA’s Freedom Standard for Fish, for their commitment to animal welfare. Loch Duart is based in Sutherland, Scotland, where wild winds blow in from the North Atlantic and tides and strong currents sweep down through the lochs to provide a self-generating, clean environment, perfect for rearing salmon. A good salmon farm keeps the stocking density low so that the fish have enough space to swim against the strong currents, which is important for developing muscle tone. I saw fish farming at close quarters a couple of years ago during a visit to Orkney. Similar principles are adopted here by a select group of specialist salmon farmers, where the cold clear deep tidal waters around Orkney and Shetland also produce fish in the very peak of condition.

PAN SEARED SALMON WITH ASPARAGUS AND HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

This is a delicious light starter or lunch dish, just perfect for early summer. Make the most of the short but sweet asparagus season to enjoy this classic combination. Serves 4

4 fillets of salmon – skinned
1 small glass of white wine
2 tablespoons of roughly chopped flat leaf parsley
Seasoning – salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil

For the seared asparagus:
1 bundle of fresh local asparagus – trimmed
50g unsalted butter
A little olive oil

To serve: Hollandaise sauce
Rocket salad – dressed with a little vinaigrette at the last minute
2 lemons – halved


Heat a heavy bottomed frying pan and add a couple of slugs of light olive or vegetable oil
Place the salmon in the pan, skinned side down and cook on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes until the juices start to caramelize
Carefully turn the salmon fillets over and continue to cook for a further 3 minutes – if the fillets are very thick you will need to adjust these times slightly
Pour the glass of wine quickly into the pan letting it bubble up and evaporate for a minute
The salmon is cooked when it is nicely caramelized on both sides but the inside remains just pink. If the flesh has a slight jelly consistency it will need a little longer
Throw in the roughly chopped parsley and seasoning
In the meantime, heat another pan, add the butter and a splash of oil and as soon as its melted add the trimmed asparagus
Toss the asparagus in the oil and butter and cook for 4-5 minutes turning frequently. If the asparagus is on the thick side, it may need a little longer
To serve, pile the rocket salad on a plate and place the cooked salmon fillet alongside (turn over to presentation side). Arrange 3-4 spears of asparagus on each fillet
Finish the presentation of the plate with a small individual bowl of hollandaise and half a lemon

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